Snowmobile Fanatics

Triple Heaven

[size=5]Rebuild Journal[/size=5]
Continued from Flaws in the sled...
11/1/05
Well, the sled is apart.

More bad news, not only is the Mag side cylinder giving me trouble, now the center cylinder has a cracked piston skirt. So I've decided to replace all three cylinders with fresh slugs. But, what makes it worse is the fact that the mag side is an overbore. I think it's .020 over, we'll see tonight.

This whole incident has taught me one thing, never trust the guy you are buying from! Never assume, he advertised the fact that he had a seizure in the e-bay auction. But, when I find the same piston it looks like he had a siezure on in the sled that pisses me off. What a bubba.

Here are the specs after measuring the cylinders and pistons.

Here are the specs on the cylinders.
*Keep in mind the standard bore is 67.75 mm*

[font=Arial][size=2]PTO(Top)           Center(Top)      Mag(Top)
1.  67.74 mm     1.  67.75 mm     1.  68.25 mm
2.  67.72 mm     2.  67.72 mm     2.  68.27 mm

(Bottom)             (Bottom)             (Bottom)
1.  67.72 mm     1.  67.71 mm     1.  68.25 mm
2.  67.72 mm     2.  67.75 mm     2.  68.27 mm

Piston Specs

PTO                    Center                 Mag
1.  67.52 mm     1.  67.50 mm     1.  67.71 mm
2.  67.54 mm     2.  67.49 mm     2.  67.72 mm[/size=2][/font=Arial]

11/3/05
Well, we've decided that the PTO and Center cylinder need to be bored to get back within spec. Which is .0035" to .004" on piston to cylinder clearance on the old Fuji's. We're getting a pretty good deal from a guy down in Milwaukee that does all the dealers work down there. He'll do a hole for $25, plus maybe a 6 pack when you pick them up. Other things today, I managed to pull the stator plate last night with little to no trouble. Not to mention we bought a set of .020" Pistons yesterday off of Ebay. Going to clean up the electrical on the sled today, I printed off the wiring diagram and I'm going to get the handwarmers going.

90'-91' RXL Wire Diagram

Rough estimates on cost.

$95 for 3 .020" Over Pistons
$50 for full gasket set
$50-75 for boring
$225 is the rough total.
11/7/05
Here we go, as I'm waiting for parts for the RXL to complete the rebuild, I decided to replace the rear shock as I originally intended on this trek home. So I removed the rear skid. Found on of the rear idler wheels had lost a bearing and was slowly taking aluminum out of the rear axle, some of the rods going through the arms are worn down due to lack of grease. Surprise, surprise, the list gets longer. So I put the shock in and now am waiting for my brother to bring home some of the idlers to put those on. Also I had a siezed bolt on the track tensioner. Now I need to buy a new track tensioner because I broke the bolt off twice. But, the tensioner was cobbled anyways, so I add another part to the list. But I plan on getting some new rods and so on and it should be solid again.
11/8/05
Replaced the track tensioner block. Also replaced the track tensioner bolts last night. Still waiting on the idlers, and the cross shaft.
11/14/05
Well, both the clutches have been gone through and cleaned up. The primary is showing some wear after 7,000 miles, but it is very runable. The secondary needed a bit of work, the buttons were worn very far and it needed a good cleaning. I replaced the buttons and the retaining washer on the clutch. Preloaded it and put the retaining ring back on it. Who needs all the clutch tools? I just use my head and save some green.

Primary

RXL Crank

RXL

RXL

RXL

RXL

RXL

RXL

11/29/05
Took care of the cases last night, new crank seals and a fresh gasket in there. Used a special petro-resistant Permatex compound to seal them up then I torqued them down.
Torque Specs for crankcases
8mm: 17-18 ft-lb. 10mm: 23-25 ft-lb.
12/2/05
Well, the guy that was going to bore the jugs just moved into a new building and isn't ready to do it, so we opted to get them bored by someone else. He quoted $60-$100
12/7/05
With the cases back together I was able to work on the stator plate last night. I got the windings mounted back up and the timing marks right on. I went to put the actual stator plate on and I was miffed to find my keyway had disappeared. Oh well, I'll be taking a 5 min trip to the hardware to pick one up. I'll also be mounting up the coils today as well. I also synchronized the oil injection tonight. Should be all set.

The cylinders are completed the pistons fit in them real good. My brother will be shipping the pistons and jugs back to me today so hopefully I will get them by Friday. One I get the jugs I plan on blitzkrieging the whole project and getting it done. So now the 648cc motor will be the 658. That sort of has a ring to it!
12/8/05

Alright tonight I was busy as all get up! I put the stator plate back on torqued it down to 60 ft-lbs. Put the coils back on the side. Slid the whole thing back into the sled as it was and will be building the top end with it in the sled so I don't have to lift a heavy mother into it later. I tightened all the motor mounts down. The mount to engine at 45 ft-lb. The mount to chassis at 50 ft-lbs. Then I replaced the gaskets in the water pump, and coolant rail.

Should be getting the jugs tomorrow afternoon. Unfortunately I have to work tomorrow night. But Saturday morning I'll be rolling on it. Hopefully start her up this weekend. I'll have to buy oil tomorrow to prime the system and so on.

Also the guy that bored the jugs didn't listen to my brother when he dropped off the jugs and it cost us a lot more than he quoted. Sort of pissed, but it wasn't enough to not make it worth it. It ended up around $125.
12/9/05
Well, one cylinder on, waited for the others to show up in the mail, but didn't come, probably tomorrow. But I may bolt down the one I have on there and then work on the waterpump in the morning.

12/12/05
Here we are, I was working over the weekend so I didn't get the sled started, but I got all three cylinders torqued down. I also primed the oil injection system, took a lot of pulling! The water pump is back on and ready to be hooked up. I wanted to get to the coolant rails, but I don't think that's going to happen today because I have to work again, but, that sled is going to start this week! I'll post some pictures later.

Once the motor was all put together, and the oil injection was setup, I did a compression check on the whole thing. Keep in mind there was a ton of oil running through there. Mag 145, Center 145, PTO 145. So all three look like they sealed up real nice and are ready to roll. She was a b*tch to pull over when the compression tester was in there! You'd hit the two cylinders with no plug and then just get your arm ripped out.
12/14/05
I got a lot of the EFI hooked up, I've got new plug wires coming. Thanks to the guy I bought the sled from when I changed the orientation of the coils the wires were too short. Since I didn't want to deal with it I just bought some new stuff. So the final list of things to do...

1. Make sure all connections are made.
2. Put new plug wires on, check spark.
3. Tighten throttle bodies down.
4. Put exhaust on.
5. Put Air box on.
6. Let her rip!
12/15/05
Well, it started baby! I put the rest together and added some good gas and she lit right up! I didn't have time to take it out into the fresh snow we have since I had to go to work, but it was just nice hearing and smelling the two-stroke exhaust. I revved her up a little bit to start the break in process and it sounded great. I just hope that the oil injection is setup right, but since I was coming from the manual I would assume it is done right. I'll have to keep an eye on the plugs to make sure though. This will probably be the last entry in my rebuild log, since it's done, but it was one heck of a ride. Here is a victory shot of the motor in there with it all back together!

12/16/05
I hate it when I lie! Well I took the sled around the yard just before I was going to go on a longer ride and I notice a coolant leak down by my left foot. So I removed the rivets and took out the JB weld. I managed to patch it I think, just to be sure I'm going to stick some high temperature gasket sealer in there and sandwhich it back together. But I think she''ll be ready tomorrow.

Update: I flipped her upright after allowing the JB Weld to set for 12 Hours and it appears that I fixed the leak. Excellent.
12/19/05
Well I took her out for a 10 mile run and had some minor problems and what might be huge problems! Two head bolts fell off, which I retorqued and did the rest of the head bolts while I was at it. Also had the sled shut down after hitting 80 mph. I've had this happen to me before so this scares me. I found a gas leak and a pinched gas line, hopefully this is what my problem is. The bearings felt good when we had the motor apart so I think it should be fine, we'll see when the sled gets run again. I also am going to change the air temp sensor, I think I broke the wire off of it when removing the airbox.
12/21/05
I didn't get the sensor, but the itch needed to be scratched so I faked the resistance and had a good time. It appears my shutting down at 80 mph is due to the pinched fuel line. It ran great, very fast sled, got her up to 100 on the speedo today in a short duration. Stays right with my dad's Formula 583! Suspension is great, I can't ask much more out of a 14 year old sled that is stock! I now have 37 miles on the rebuilt motor and it seems to run great.
1/23/05
Ah, the sigh of relief. After 546 miles, I think I have something solid. It runs up to the correct RPM, and runs up to 100. Now All I need to do is get a seat that isn't ripped to hell.